Lot 171

Designed as a crab with the body set with full-cut diamonds and gemset eyes, mounted in gold.

Diamond: 0.40 carats
Gross weight: 3.82 grams

The coloured diamonds have not been tested for natural origin of colour.

One of the earliest forms of jewellery, brooches began as simple functional pins - sometimes called fibulae - to hold garments together. The evolution of the brooch into an accessory and ornament closely mirrored the sociopolitical and economic contexts of each decade. Metal pins first appeared in the Bronze age, and gradually became more decorative and visible, used to fasten cloaks and scarves. During the 16th and 17th centuries, jewellery began to be associated with status, and accordingly, pins featured precious metals, gemstones, carvings and more intricate designs.

The Victorian era was dominated by Naturalism in art, reflected in brooch designs primarily inspired by nature, featuring accurate renditions of flowers, birds and insects. Ornate, delicate designs, including feminine motifs such as bows and ribbons, continued until the early 1900s; and Indian craftsmen often altered these motifs and techniques, drawing on "a strong indigenous tradition" which "metamorphosed into a new style by 1851, often depicting roses, hearts and crosses." (Nick Barnard, Indian Jewellery: The V&A Collection, London: V&A Publishing, 2008, p. 80)

After the First World War, there was a shift to more geometric, strong and streamlined Art Deco designs. "What women were wearing impacted the way brooches were worn at any given time in history. But the social and historical context matters too. If you look back to the history, women were actually becoming more powerful in society and in politics. Even jewellery reflects this social development, and designs became stronger and a little bit more masculine." (Kate Springer, "The Brooch is Back: But Where Did They Come From?" Hong Kong Tatler, hk.asiatatler.com, 2017, online)

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  Lot 171 of 174  


$715 - 1,145
Rs 50,000 - 80,000

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