Lot 167

Designed as a stylised flamingo, centred on a faceted oval kunzite, with the neck set with round brilliant diamonds and a blue sapphire for the eye, and textured gold as the body.
Kunzite: 7.50 carats
Diamond: 0.75 carat
Sapphire: 0.03 carat
Gross weight: 15.71 grams

One of the earliest forms of jewellery, brooches began as simple functional pins - sometimes called fibulae - to hold garments together. The evolution of the brooch into an accessory and ornament closely mirrored the sociopolitical and economic contexts of each decade. Metal pins first appeared in the Bronze age, and gradually became more decorative and visible, used to fasten cloaks and scarves. During the 16th and 17th centuries, jewellery began to be associated with status, and accordingly, pins featured precious metals, gemstones, carvings and more intricate designs.

The Victorian era was dominated by Naturalism in art, reflected in brooch designs primarily inspired by nature, featuring accurate renditions of flowers, birds and insects. Ornate, delicate designs, including feminine motifs such as bows and ribbons, continued until the early 1900s; and Indian craftsmen often altered these motifs and techniques, drawing on "a strong indigenous tradition" which "metamorphosed into a new style by 1851, often depicting roses, hearts and crosses." (Nick Barnard, Indian Jewellery: The V&A Collection, London: V&A Publishing, 2008, p. 80)

After the First World War, there was a shift to more geometric, strong and streamlined Art Deco designs. "What women were wearing impacted the way brooches were worn at any given time in history. But the social and historical context matters too. If you look back to the history, women were actually becoming more powerful in society and in politics. Even jewellery reflects this social development, and designs became stronger and a little bit more masculine." (Kate Springer, "The Brooch is Back: But Where Did They Come From?" Hong Kong Tatler, hk.asiatatler.com, 2017, online)

Other similar works in: this auction  |  entire site

  Lot 167 of 174  

15-16 OCTOBER 2019

Rs 2,00,000 - 3,00,000
$2,860 - 4,290



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