Important Notice

Of superior craftsmanship, the necklace is a stunning combination of jadau-work and enamel techniques. A gently graduating row of pearls suspends a central pendant centring on an emerald cabochon with a similarly set surround of rubies, diamond polkis and emeralds, further suspending a kundan-set diamond. The reverse has intricate enamel in floral motif in red, green and blue on gold ground.

Gross weight: 107.83 grams



Provenance: Property from the private collection of a former Indian Princely family
Private Collection, circa 1940s

Meenakari refers to the technique of enamelling, which was widely practised during the time of Emperor Akbar, from the 16th through the 17th centuries. Contrary to the belief that it is a dying art, this style of enamelling is a widely practiced technique in India, with Jaipur being home to many enamelling workshops. However, this tradition was not indigenous to the subcontinent. According to historians, it was first introduced around the 13th century, through Punjab, and flourished under the reign of the Mughals, spreading to other locations from the royal ateliers. Benares (Varanasi), Jaipur, Lucknow, the Deccan, and Kangra in India, as well as Multan and Lahore in Pakistan, are famed for their enamelling techniques. In this tradition, even the reverse of an ornament was decorated with unmatched detail, most commonly with floral and foliate motifs including chrysanthemums, lotuses, poppy flowers and rosebuds. These would sometimes be interspersed with birds and animals, with gradations of colour in the designs enhancing each motif. Mughal, and later Basohli miniature paintings from the same region, incorporated similar floral motifs, seeking to recreate an equivalent of paradise.

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