Lot 53

The bracelet features three rows of polki diamonds in hexagonal kundan-work links, with rows of seed pearls lining each of the three rows of polki diamonds, set to a stylised clasp. The reverse is in polychrome enamel in floral motifs on gold ground.

Gross weight: 49.31 grams

Kundan is a process unique to India. ???The technique uses virtually pure gold - kundan - to set stones in closed settings with great versatility in their arrangement...," (Nick Barnard, Indian Jewellery: The V&A Collection, London: V&A Publishing, 2008, p. 58) The ornament contains hollow spaces or depressions for the placement of the gemstones, which are first filled with lac resin and silver foil, which the stone is placed onto. A thin leaf of pure gold, "which can be welded at room temperature through pressure alone," is pressed into the spaces between the stone and metal, and burnished into a solid wedge that holds the stone firmly. The application of gold leaves is a highly skilled process that requires hours to complete, and kundan will therefore remain a form of handmade jewellery. In the Mughal tradition, many magnificent kundan ornaments with floral motifs and enamelling were commissioned by wealthy patrons. (Usha R Balakrishanan and Meera Sushil Kumar, Dance of the Peacock: Jewellery Traditions of India, Mumbai: India Book House, 1999, p. 155)

Other similar works in: this auction  |  entire site

  Lot 53 of 174  

15-16 OCTOBER 2019

$5,000 - 6,430
Rs 3,50,000 - 4,50,000

Winning Bid
Rs 3,56,615
(Inclusive of Buyer's Premium)


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