Lot 85
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Designed as two strands of ruby beads, joined by a diamond-set clasp, suspending a detachable tassel pendant designed as a triangular plaque set with round brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds, suspended from a single collet-set round diamond, with a diamond-set bail, and seven gently graduated strands of natural Burmese ruby beads, weighing approximately 228.44 carats in total, and a total diamond weight of approximately 8.29 carats, mounted in 18 K gold

Throughout Indian history, jewels have functioned as chronicles of culture, society, power and wealth. Boundaries in the ancient world were fluid and expanded and collapsed based upon the power, might and conquering fervor of neighbouring kingdoms and invaders. Over time, manufacturing techniques, gemstones, designs and motifs travelled the routes of commerce and hegemony. Jewels in fact, became the prime vehicles for the transmission of culture and design influences flowed freely across geographical limitations.

In the 18th century, Indian jewels that arrived in Europe were viewed with wonder and showcased in 'cabinets of curiosities'. Carved gemstones, the combination of a variety of colours in a single piece and the riot of colours used in Indian enamel work excited European sensibility. In the late 19th century, Indian jewelry became fashionable and exotic in European society. Queen Victoria not only wore them for political reasons but also had a fondness for them. As a result, there was a cross-fertilization of jewelry designs, motifs and techniques.

Multi-strand bead necklaces that were in vogue in Paris were known as 'colliers indiens'. The sarpech (turban ornament) was adapted to pins, brooches and epaulettes; the mango and peacock motif together with other Indian flora and fauna were all incorporated into European design idiom and none more so than the Indian tassel. Crafted from fabric and cord, tassels were extensively used and formed an integral part of garments, curtains and other hangings. However, it was during the Victorian era and due to Indian influence, that tassels became popular in jewelry. Adapted from the Indian turra (a turban ornament in the form of a jeweled flower head or parrot with a free-hanging cluster of pearls or precious beads), bunched strands of graded pearls, emerald or ruby beads became exotic and popular. The tassel became an element of jewelry design and featured as pendants to sautoirs – long rope necklaces with a tassel pendant at the end. Cartier, the renowned French jewelers, expressed their romance with India by incorporating the tassel in their signature sautoirs and necklaces that were made up of several strands of plaited seed pearls. Tassels also made their appearance in earrings, armlets and bracelets lending an exotic oriental touch to a western outfit. With report 8006002-3-10256-I, dated 3 March 2009, from the Gemmological Institute of India stating that the 146 beads in 7 strands of the pendant are natural rubies of Burmese origin

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  Lot 85 of 180  

15-16 APRIL 2009

Rs 15,00,000 - 18,00,000
$30,615 - 36,735


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