Important Notice

KUTCH, CIRCA 1950
Handspun and handwoven cotton, hand embroidered in cotton thread with buttons, beads and cowrie shells, natural dyes
Length 20 in (51cm), Sleeve span 35.25 in (90cm)


The highly ornate, embroidered choli, or bodice is worn by women from the Dhebaria Rabari community of Kutch. A tight-fitting, brassiere-like garment, it is held in place with strings that are tied around the neck and under the bust at the back. All young Rabari women wear embellished blouses for ceremonies and festivals; they are also an important part of a bride's trousseau. Cut without a pattern, almost every bit of the ground fabric is covered with embroidery, the types of stitches and geometric motifs making them distinct.

Cholis are usually thread-embroidered with traditional flowering motifs and a variety of stylized birds and animal patterns. These auspicious motifs were inspired by the 'Tree of Life' and other fertility symbols. The sleeves of the present lot are embroidered with designs representing the female image, the cups and shoulders with flowering blossoms fashioned as roundels. At the back, the long rectangular motifs with a pointed top are the ambo (mango tree).

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