PAIR OF GEMSET BRACELETS
Pair of identical bracelets set with colourless sapphires in foliate motifs, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 73.42 grams Kundan is a process unique to India. ???The technique uses virtually pure gold - kundan - to set stones in closed settings with great versatility in their arrangement...," (Nick Barnard, Indian Jewellery: The V&A Collection , London: V&A Publishing, 2008, p. 58) The ornament contains hollow spaces or depressions for the placement of the gemstones, which are first filled with lac resin and silver foil, which the stone is placed onto. A thin leaf of pure gold, "which can be welded at room temperature through pressure alone," is pressed into the spaces between the stone and metal, and burnished into a solid wedge that holds the stone firmly. The application of gold leaves is a highly skilled process that requires hours to complete, and kundan will therefore remain a form of handmade jewellery. In the Mughal tradition, many magnificent kundan ornaments with floral motifs and enamelling were commissioned by wealthy patrons. (Usha R Balakrishanan and Meera Sushil Kumar, Dance of the Peacock: Jewellery Traditions of India , Mumbai: India Book House, 1999, p. 155)
Pair of identical bracelets set with colourless sapphires in foliate motifs, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 73.42 grams Kundan is a process unique to India. ???The technique uses virtually pure gold - kundan - to set stones in closed settings with great versatility in their arrangement...," (Nick Barnard, Indian Jewellery: The V&A Collection , London: V&A Publishing, 2008, p. 58) The ornament contains hollow spaces or depressions for the placement of the gemstones, which are first filled with lac resin and silver foil, which the stone is placed onto. A thin leaf of pure gold, "which can be welded at room temperature through pressure alone," is pressed into the spaces between the stone and metal, and burnished into a solid wedge that holds the stone firmly. The application of gold leaves is a highly skilled process that requires hours to complete, and kundan will therefore remain a form of handmade jewellery. In the Mughal tradition, many magnificent kundan ornaments with floral motifs and enamelling were commissioned by wealthy patrons. (Usha R Balakrishanan and Meera Sushil Kumar, Dance of the Peacock: Jewellery Traditions of India , Mumbai: India Book House, 1999, p. 155)
Lot
54
of
174
FINE JEWELS: ODE TO NATURE
15-16 OCTOBER 2019
Estimate
Rs 4,00,000 - 5,00,000
$5,715 - 7,145
Winning Bid
Rs 5,72,355
$8,177
(Inclusive of Buyer's Premium)
Gemset Bracelet