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Lot 138
GEMSET NECKLACE

Designed with eleven square-shaped plaques connected to two taviz-shaped gemset terminals, all set with colourless stones, joined by a silk cord. The reverse is in red and green enamel in floral motifs on a gold ground.

Gross weight: 99.62 grams


Meenakari refers to the technique of enamelling, which was widely practised during the time of Emperor Akbar, from the 16th through the 17th centuries. Contrary to the belief that it is a dying art, this style of enamelling is a widely practiced technique in India, with Jaipur being home to many enamelling workshops. However, this tradition was not indigenous to the subcontinent. According to historians, it was first introduced around the 13th century, through Punjab, and flourished under the reign of the Mughals, spreading to other locations from the royal ateliers. Benares (Varanasi), Jaipur, Lucknow, the Deccan, and Kangra in India, as well as Multan and Lahore in Pakistan, are famed for their enamelling techniques. In this tradition, even the reverse of an ornament was decorated with unmatched detail, most commonly with floral and foliate motifs including chrysanthemums, lotuses, poppy flowers and rosebuds. These would sometimes be interspersed with birds and animals, with gradations of colour in the designs enhancing each motif. Mughal, and later Basohli miniature paintings from the same region, incorporated similar floral motifs, seeking to recreate an equivalent of paradise.







  Lot 138 of 174  

FINE JEWELS: ODE TO NATURE
15-16 OCTOBER 2019

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Gemset Necklace


 









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