Important Notice

These shawls were made in long sizes to be worn as shoulder mantles by maharajas and aristocrats

Mid 19th century
Fine handwoven, wool yarn, natural vegetable dyes
96.5 x 38.25 in (244 x 97 cm)

NON-EXPORTABLE


Historically, Kani shawls were luxury items favoured by Mughal, Rajput, Sikh, and Maratha royalty. Their production involves a laborious process requiring several artisans, including a nakkash or pattern- drawer; a tarah, who decides colour combinations and selected the yarn; a nakatu or warp-maker and pennakamgur or warp-dresser who prepares the warp; and a talim guru who creates a shorthand notation of the pattern for the ustad or master weaver to instruct his weavers. The weft threads are then handwoven using kanis, with sometimes as many as 50 being used for a single design. More complex designs may be woven on multiple looms and later joined seamlessly by a needle-worker. Depending on the complexity, a single shawl can take two weavers between six months and two years to complete.

These shawls were made in long sizes to be worn as shoulder mantles by maharajas and aristocrats

Mid 19th century
Fine handwoven, wool yarn, natural vegetable dyes
96.5 x 38.25 in (244 x 97 cm)

NON-EXPORTABLE


Historically, Kani shawls were luxury items favoured by Mughal, Rajput, Sikh, and Maratha royalty. Their production involves a laborious process requiring several artisans, including a nakkash or pattern- drawer; a tarah, who decides colour combinations and selected the yarn; a nakatu or warp-maker and pennakamgur or warp-dresser who prepares the warp; and a talim guru who creates a shorthand notation of the pattern for the ustad or master weaver to instruct his weavers. The weft threads are then handwoven using kanis, with sometimes as many as 50 being used for a single design. More complex designs may be woven on multiple looms and later joined seamlessly by a needle-worker. Depending on the complexity, a single shawl can take two weavers between six months and two years to complete.